Falls Church Press, By Darien Bates - 10/12/2006
29/12/06 12:07
Restaurant
Spotlight of the Week:
"The Idylwood Grill & Wine Bar"
By Darien Bates
Wine has a reputation. Sophisticated. Exclusive. Expensive. It's all there in those liter-sized bottles. But despite the years of cultural knowledge that go into the growing and aging of wines, everything from cordials to ports, the beverage shouldn't be intimidating. After all, it’s just grapes; unless of course you're talking about strawberry or peach wines, but that's another article.
In fact wine has become more approachable and affordable over the past decade. Vineyards have sprung up around the world, and global trade is bringing greater variety to local wine stores, with varieties from established wine countries like Italy and France competing with newer vintners such as Chile and Argentina. The global growth means that wines have become better and better while simultaneously becoming cheaper.
But though there are now thousands of vineyards and dozens of grape varieties how does one find the key into this arcane world? Well, if you're living in the Falls Church area a place just opened up that pays tribute and breaks down the barriers to one of the world’s oldest beverages.
Two weeks ago the Idylwood Grill and Wine Bar, located in the Idylwood Shopping Center on Pimmit Drive opened its doors, taking over the space once occupied by the Florence Café. The stylishly decorated grill started serving lunch and dinner last week and will shortly start operation of its wine bar after they get final approval from the state of Virginia.
Even without the wine bar, the grill should be an attraction. Chef Marvin Hernandez, former banquet chef at the Historic George Town Club, brings his talents to the menu that has a larger vision than is implied with the typical description of a grill.
Described as American fare, for lack of a more comprehensive term, entrees vary from Beef Tenderloin to Linguine Seafood Creole. But the titles of the dishes don't begin to do justice to what actually is delivered by the waiter.
In short, the food is exquisite. A good barometer of well-prepared food is the quality of the calamari. Poorly prepared calamari, even calamari that is just slightly overdone, becomes so rubbery it is practically inedible. But the Idyl-Calamari-sautéed rather than fried-served with a tomato beurre blanc, along with herbs, garlic and shallots. It practically melts in one’s mouth.
It would be difficult to list and describe here all the dishes worth writing about, but there are a couple of highlights that must be given some attention. Leading the charge is the Linguini Seafood Creole, a combination of shrimp, mussels, calamari and salmon served over linguini in a spicy marinara sauce. The exceptional quality of the calamari is mirrored by the rest of the seafood and the sauce demands attention without taking away from the individual flavors. Despite the quality fare, the prices are very reasonable, no item priced over $15.
Other dishes, from the Tuna to the New York Steak, which is served in a gorgonzola red wine sauce, are equally tasty.
But this doesn’t even take into account the soon-to-open wine bar. Owner Hedi Ben-Abdallah is a self-described wine geek, who has sold, tasted and taught wine for years. With a bar area that looks more like a classy Starbucks, full of sofas and cushioned seating, Ben-Abdallah isn’t just offering a place to get a drink, but a comfortable relaxed surrounding to really enjoy wine.
And for those with any questions about what to drink, Ben-Abdallah is happy to oblige.
Along with being a restaurateur, Ben-Abdallah has filmed a pilot wine program, “Uncorked” where, just as cooking programs go through meal preparation, he describes different wines, how to choose them and how to enjoy them, for everyone.
"The Idylwood Grill & Wine Bar"
By Darien Bates
Wine has a reputation. Sophisticated. Exclusive. Expensive. It's all there in those liter-sized bottles. But despite the years of cultural knowledge that go into the growing and aging of wines, everything from cordials to ports, the beverage shouldn't be intimidating. After all, it’s just grapes; unless of course you're talking about strawberry or peach wines, but that's another article.
In fact wine has become more approachable and affordable over the past decade. Vineyards have sprung up around the world, and global trade is bringing greater variety to local wine stores, with varieties from established wine countries like Italy and France competing with newer vintners such as Chile and Argentina. The global growth means that wines have become better and better while simultaneously becoming cheaper.
But though there are now thousands of vineyards and dozens of grape varieties how does one find the key into this arcane world? Well, if you're living in the Falls Church area a place just opened up that pays tribute and breaks down the barriers to one of the world’s oldest beverages.
Two weeks ago the Idylwood Grill and Wine Bar, located in the Idylwood Shopping Center on Pimmit Drive opened its doors, taking over the space once occupied by the Florence Café. The stylishly decorated grill started serving lunch and dinner last week and will shortly start operation of its wine bar after they get final approval from the state of Virginia.
Even without the wine bar, the grill should be an attraction. Chef Marvin Hernandez, former banquet chef at the Historic George Town Club, brings his talents to the menu that has a larger vision than is implied with the typical description of a grill.
Described as American fare, for lack of a more comprehensive term, entrees vary from Beef Tenderloin to Linguine Seafood Creole. But the titles of the dishes don't begin to do justice to what actually is delivered by the waiter.
In short, the food is exquisite. A good barometer of well-prepared food is the quality of the calamari. Poorly prepared calamari, even calamari that is just slightly overdone, becomes so rubbery it is practically inedible. But the Idyl-Calamari-sautéed rather than fried-served with a tomato beurre blanc, along with herbs, garlic and shallots. It practically melts in one’s mouth.
It would be difficult to list and describe here all the dishes worth writing about, but there are a couple of highlights that must be given some attention. Leading the charge is the Linguini Seafood Creole, a combination of shrimp, mussels, calamari and salmon served over linguini in a spicy marinara sauce. The exceptional quality of the calamari is mirrored by the rest of the seafood and the sauce demands attention without taking away from the individual flavors. Despite the quality fare, the prices are very reasonable, no item priced over $15.
Other dishes, from the Tuna to the New York Steak, which is served in a gorgonzola red wine sauce, are equally tasty.
But this doesn’t even take into account the soon-to-open wine bar. Owner Hedi Ben-Abdallah is a self-described wine geek, who has sold, tasted and taught wine for years. With a bar area that looks more like a classy Starbucks, full of sofas and cushioned seating, Ben-Abdallah isn’t just offering a place to get a drink, but a comfortable relaxed surrounding to really enjoy wine.
And for those with any questions about what to drink, Ben-Abdallah is happy to oblige.
Along with being a restaurateur, Ben-Abdallah has filmed a pilot wine program, “Uncorked” where, just as cooking programs go through meal preparation, he describes different wines, how to choose them and how to enjoy them, for everyone.